More days in Venice

To spend money

The above image represents a working space and Gallery with classic Murano glass reinterpreted with creativity.  Massimo Micheluzzi. Calle Della Toletta 107

A Venetian artisan, Stefano Coluccio, recreates the antique convex mirrors, witche’s mirrors? known also as Sorciere.   1173 Dorsoduro

Jonathan Ceolin creates lanterns, sconces and other Venetian lights with forged iron in the same way as in 17th Century. Secrets of the trade belong to the family for several generations and Jonathan uses them still today.  6106 Calle Marcello - Castello

Legatoria Piazzesi, Campiello de la Feltrina, San Marco

Beautiful paper, original patterns can be found at this address.

Alberto Cavalier has taken over his father's business as a "doreur" and a restorer. A grand artisanat d'art for antique lacquered or gold leaf finishes.   Campiello Loredan/Campo Santo Stefano

"Jesurum" One of my favorite places, famous for the most beautiful tablecloths, laces, embroidered sheets. Established in 1870.

Fifth generation of luxury textile production, the modern times famous "Rubelli" (which started in the XVI century) at Palazzo Corner-Spinelli hosts a collection of thousands of historic pieces.

You can even find here fragments of velvets from the end of 1400.

In the historic building Loredan-Falconi the Roberta di Camerino atelier remains in the same space that has seen in the 50's the beginning of the "tromp-l'oeil" of forms and colors on bags, scarves and garments. The purse "Bagonghi" was a favorite of Grace Kelly.

"Mercatino dei Miracoli"

Without fixed dates this Flea market is amazing for the treasures presented.

Mid century, rare books, photography, Sestiere Cannaregio, piazza Santa Maria Nova and streets around. Don't forget to visit the magnificent renaissance church of "Miracoli"

To admire Modern Architecture

Portale dei Tolentini. Former convent dei Tolentini, Santa Croce 191. Near San Nicolo' da Tolentino Church there is the main entrance to the Istituto Universitario di Architettura di Venezia, a project by Scarpa, between 1966 and 1978, realized putting together fragments of an ancient door made of Istria marble which was salvaged during the restoration of the building.

Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5252 Tel 041 27 11 411. In 1949 Scarpa redesigned the entrance, the main floor and the garden of this historic 1500 palace. Still today it is a perfect example of the best restoration project in Venice. In the building there is also a magnificent library, a museum with a collection of Venetian paintings from 17th Century.

Casa delle Zattere. Fondamenta delle zattere. Building designed by Ignazio Gardella in 1958; the modern architecture became integral part of the delicate and fascinating historic context.

Punta della Dogana.

A new exhibition space for Contemporary Art, created by François Pinault, the French tycoon and major collector of French art, who has also bought the restored Palazzo Grassi. The project is by world famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando who restored the Dogana with the highest respect for its history giving new life to the red bricks of the facade and the wood beams inside. The fascinating place, suspended amidst water received also contemporary elements to create a perfect space for art exhibitions.

To buy art

Campo Santo Stefano San Marco 2765 Tel. 041 520 49 42. Contini Arte
A gallery as a reference point for international and national best names of modern and contemporary art.

More to come soon about a special collector and antiquarian.

A few days in Venice

To sleep and to dream

Cà Maria Adele. Dorsoduro 111, Rio Terà dei Catecumeni, Tel. 041 520 3078 Ca' Maria Adele. A romantic Hotel, near Chiesa S. Maria della Salute (a masterpiece of 17th-Century architecture),with 12 rooms and 5 "concept rooms". It offers a terrace, a lounge and a gorgeous living area 1950's style.

Casa de Uscoli. Campo Santo Stefano 2818, Tel. 041 241 0669 Casa de Uscoli. A renaissance building on the Grand Canal with 3 rooms and 3 apartments. Amazing art from Lucio Fontana, objects by Castiglioni and more.

"Oltre il giardino". San Polo 2542, Tel 041 2750015 Oltre il giardino. Charming and elegant Hotel with a beautiful garden. In the heart of the city where you will feel at home.

Eat and be happy

La Zucca. Santa Croce 1762, Tel 041 52 415 70.

A great Osteria, family owned, with a vegetarian menu and some delicious meat dishes.

Anice Stellato. Cannaregio Fondamenta Della Sensa 3272 Tel 041 720 744.

Typical Venetian dishes and great fish in one of the most appealing areas of Venice.

Avogaria. Calle dell’Avogaria 1629 Tel 041 296 04 91. A small and elegant restaurant with specialties from the South of Italy. They also offer 3 rooms for overnight guests and a private garden.

After dinner drinks

Skyline bar (Molino Stucky Hilton), Fondamenta San Biagio 810. Tel 041 2723311

On the 8th floor of the Hilton, with an amazing pool and an enchanting view over Venice.

Isola d'Ischia

Ischia is a volcanic island at the northern end of the Gulf of Naples, just across the island of Capri...

and it will have the honor of my presence in a few days!

The island is famous for its natural volcanic activity, its thermal hot springs, and its volcanic mud.

Negombo Park, a wellness center, near Lacco Ameno, where thermal water, Mediterranean vegetation and sea water combined cure and revitalize (so I hope...)

The Bay of San Montano is a small, protected cove. The beach is the blondest and most finely grained on an island predominantly made up of darker, volcanic soil.
Site of one of the earliest Greek colonies in the west, Lacco Ameno was once a key trading point between the ancient Greek and Roman civilizations - that of Pithecusa.
You may have seen already some scenery from Ischia since parts of the film The Talented Mr Ripley were filmed on the island.
A key personality in the economic development of Lacco Ameno was Angelo Rizzoli ( Milan 1889-1970). Orphaned at a young age and raised in poverty, Rizzoli rose to prosperity. He apprenticed in the printer trade and later became an entrepreneur in his twenties and a film producer later on ("La Dolce Vita" and many more famous movies). In 1949 he began publishing books and soon created an Italian publishing empire. One-time resident of Villa Arbusto, his influence brought a variety of stars and public figures to the island after the Second World War.

Food

Fish abounds in the Mediterranean sea and many specialties of the region are my favorites, one of them "Pesce all'acqua pazza" or fish in crazy water! Easy to make and delicious but it needs the right kind of fish.

A specialty of Naples if not THE most famous specialty? But of course...La Pizzaaaa

Vegetables and fruits, due to the long exposure to sun have a special taste.

Lemons of Ischia are famous for their sweetness, their skin is used to produce "Limoncello" liqueur but lemons are also part of several recipes for desserts (even lemon and chocolate truffles).

At times at home I even venture to make the famous "Pastiera napoletana" a cake with a lengthy preparation which is a must in Naples to celebrate Easter. Among other ingredients: Ricotta, lemon zest, presoaked grain, many eggs and it must be prepared a few days in advance to allow ingredients' flavors to blend.
One last small story...in Naples it is still in use to go to a Coffee place and after having ordered a drink pay also for another one (being coffee, tea or something else). "Caffé Pagato" declares the person at the cashier and that means someone else, with less money or no money will find a free coffee for him later on.

Just that makes me love Naples and its culture!

I can't wait...

Text and images sources: Wikipedia and Ischia website

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

An interesting Museum in the historic Fini-Speroni palace in Florence, Ferragamo's headquarters, tells the story of the founder Salvatore Ferragamo and shows his legendary creations.

"Opened in 1995 by Wanda Ferragamo and her family, the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum was designed to show the public the history of the brand’s founder and his creations – footwear viewed by museums and experts worldwide as no less than works of art".

Since he was a kid he loved shoes and played with cardboard and scissors in his modest house near Naples. Being part of a 14 children family he very early had to stop playing and started working as one of the humblest job's figure at the time: " il ciabattino" (repairing shoes). At 13 years of age he opened a tiny store in his family's house working with 5 more children around shoes. In 1914 he embarked on the "Stampalia" with his brothers to follow the "American dream".
His name rapidly became famous in the world of Cinematography and many important actors and actresses like Mary Pickford, Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford and Rodolfo Valentino, fell in love with those shoes made by hand and smoothly embracing their feet, created with the most extravagant materials, oriental silk, feathers, brocade.   He returned to Italy and opened his own store in Florence in 1927.

Ferragamo with Joan Crawford in his store on Hollywood Boulevard, 1928

with Sophia Loren, 1950's

with Audrey Hepburn in Florence, 1950's

Since the beginning he wanted to make a statement and shoes became a primary element of fashion, not just of secondary importance as before. He was definitely a precursor of time! But style was not the only thing he was interested in, comfort was always his priority (he had study anatomy at the University of South California, while there).
Going back to the Museum...Since there are about 10,000 shoe's models in the collection they are exhibited in biennial rotations following different themes.
This year is the time of "COLOR" and the use of it in Ferragamo's fashion accessories since the 30's.
Strong, bold colors breaking the tradition of blacks, browns or whites: emerald greens, sunny yellows, intense blues and, his favorite color, ruby red, symbol of energy and life.

Note the Cubist inspiration of the shoe on the right.

 

1938 Chinoiserie (which will be trendy even today)

Sandal 1938 Upper in black silk and gold kid. Wedge heel in cork covered by mosaic of gilded glass. The model was created for Carmen Miranda

Invisible sandal, 1947 Upper formed of a single nylon thread and green kid.F-shaped wedge heel in wood covered with green kid.

Sandal made of black silk with a silk sock either black, red or gold. The model was called "Kimo" and created in 1951 !!! How contemporary can it be..

Sandal, 1955 Upper in black satin. Brass cage heel.

"Viatica" is the shoe created for Marilyn Monroe in the Billy Wilder's movie

 "Someone like it hot" 1959.

Court shoe, 1958-59 Upper in brown crocodile.Stiletto heel. The model was created for

Marilyn Monroe.

Boot, 1964-65 Zebra upper with leather sole

 

Sandal in synthetic raffia, 1967

 

Sandal created for Charlotte Rampling in 2001

 2001 Sandal in black satin with ‘Gancino’ ornament studded with diamonds, created for the event 'White Tie and Ball' for the Elton John AIDS Foundation

Another image of the Museum with the medieval coffered ceiling.

A beautiful book about the history of Palazzo Spini Feroni and its Museum, which today acts as the headquarters for Salvatore Ferragamo. The book has numerous illustrations and explains the artistic works contained within the building. (Milan, 1995)

Images from Ferragamo website and from Ufficio stampa Salvatore Ferragamo